Sunday, July 31, 2011

The Voice of Zamora

Zamora was quiet this weekend. Whether this is typical of the city or brought on by the fact that August is vacation time in Spain is immaterial. The silence that enveloped the city was enough to allow the whisper of her history to speak across the ages.


Zamora is a city in the region of Castille & Leon that is often called a “Romanesque museum” because of its 24 Romanesque cathedrals and the ruins of a large Roman castle at the edge of the city. It is this history of the Roman times that echoed through the silence of the city. Tufts of grass now grow out of cracking Roman construction but the presence of the ancient civilization is evident in every edifice.

But Rome is not the only player in the history of this city. By the river, small houses stretch over the water called “Las Aceñas de Olivares”. The houses were used as water mills in which to grind grain, but their construction dates back to the Muslim influence in Spain. “Aceñas” is actually a shortening of the Muslim word for grain mill and it dates back to the 10th century.

Thanks to their restoration in 2008, the Aceñas continue to churn the River Duero oblivious to the modern world and all her caprices. And the people of Zamora continue to live quietly, products of the history that abounds around them.



Thursday, July 28, 2011

Spain and the Americas

There is a flipside to every coin, a dark side for every light, and the discovery of the Americas is no exception for Spain. While the discovery is known as a key player in the economic history of Spain, it is also acknowledged as a black mark in her treatment of the conquered. It is acknowledged, but not overly dwelt on. Like most historical events, the discovery of the Americas and the treatment of her peoples is simply an event of the past – it serves as a lesson, and at times leaves a scar.

In my first days of literature classes at the University of Salamanca, someone touched on Latin American writers and asked our professor what she thought of them. Our professor hesitated to say much but commented that, often times, Latin American writers are overly fixated on the maltreatment of the native peoples by the Spanish conquistadors. It seems that for many, the time of bereavement has long since passed, leaving the balm of centuries to assuage any hard feelings.

Perhaps Latin American writers dwell on the travesties of Spain, but many Latin American people look on their Spanish heritage as a status symbol. The feelings of the Latin American students with whom I worked was definitely a favorable one. Those with Spanish heritage were always to be envied and if you were graced with the lisp of Spain, better to exaggerate it than to leave any shadow of doubt as to your heritage. A girl with both a Mexican passport and Spanish passport thanks to the happenstance of birth was to be envied as much as one with both Mexican and American passports thanks to the situation of their birth on the Mexican-American border. One lucky girl enjoyed the prestige of Spanish blood while another enjoyed the ease of United States citizenry.

Like the unfinished La Sagrada Familia in Barcelona, perceptions continue to change and evolve concerning the relationship between Spain and the New World. However, as it stands, it seems that Spain would move past their controversial relationship with the Americas, and Latin America would hold onto the legacy of Spain as a sign of their own worth or of their own misfortune.

Wednesday, July 27, 2011

The Columbus Legacy

About a block from my dormitory, next to the cathedral of San Esteban, stands an old building. In a city filled with ancient architecture, it is easy to overlook the dwarfed structure, but it would be an eternal shame to miss this humble building due to its historical significance to Spain and the New World. It is in this building in 1492, after the Catholic King and Queen reconquered the Spanish lands, that a young Italian man named Christopher Columbus came to Isabel and Ferdinand to ask for permission to go in search of a new route through the Indies. Already refused by Portugal, Columbus laid out his plans to the Spanish King and Queen.

In that modest building beside the towering San Esteban of Salamanca, the course of history was changed. Columbus would fail in his quest for a route through the Indies but succeed in discovering the New World. He would forever change the course of history for both Spain and the Americas. This discovery would mean as much, if not more, for Spain as it did for the Americas for it would sustain the economy of Spain for years to come. Their vast holdings in the Americas would translate to power in the European contest of nations and extensive Spanish holdings that spurred the Spanish King Felipe II to say, “Sobre mi imperio nunca se pone el sol.” “Over my empire, the sun never sets.”

Monuments to Columbus abound in Spain; however, one of the largest can be found in Barcelona. Seville would eventually become the main port of trade with the Americas, but Barcelona is the location where Columbus first brought natives from the New World to Spain. Thus began our cooperation with Spain and, by extension, Europe at large.

Monday, July 25, 2011

Barcelona and Gaudi

Antonio Gaudi owns Barcelona. His architectural masterpieces grace the streets of Barcelona from Park Guell in the far reaches of the mountain, La Sagrada Familia and La Pedrera in the center of the city and the Gaudi museum by the ocean front. His fae-like creations are like none else and characterize Gaudi as much as they characterize the city.

Like many artists, Gaudi was not accepted in his own time by the general populace. His inspired buildings belong in neither the modernist nor the gothic realm of architecture. They are unique creations onto themselves.

Indeed, Gaudi himself was a unique individual - as is evidenced by his unconventional architecture. On the sides of the unfinished Sagrada Familia, perfectly sculpted snails slide along the turrets, taking the place of the traditional gothic gargoyles. Many say that Gaudi opted for snails instead of grander decorations because he thought they were a humble creature and, to Gaudi, humility was the greatest of virtues. How odd that an architect of such magnitude could adopt such a virtue in a field filled with artistic hubris.

Gaudi is not only reflected in the architecture of Barcelona, but in the culture of the city as well. Though Barcelona is in Spain, it is different from the rest of the territory because of its placement in the region of Catalonia. Although Spanish is one of their official languages, nearly all of Barcelona's citizens speak in Catalan - a language quite different from Spanish, though it is also derived from Latin. In fact, most of Barcelona's citizens refuse to speak in Spanish and would prefer that you address them in English should you not understand Catalan.

Barcelona does not wallow in their differences but rather embraces a pride that varies greatly from Gaudi's humility. (A pride that is perhaps warranted as they bring in approximately 25 percent of Spain's GDP thanks to their seafood revenue.) In this way, Barcelona is like Gaudi in their misfit status, but different in the perception of their own genius.

Thursday, July 21, 2011

Huerto Calixto y Malibea

I have made mention before of certain well known writers who have planted their roots in Salamanca. Being a city built around its university, it is little wonder that so many famous writers come from this place. On a larger scale the same could be said of the region of Castile & Leon, where Salamanca is located. Several authors, particularly those of the Generations '98 and '27, have come from the Castile & Leon area, including Unamuno, Garcia Lorca, and Azorin.

Perhaps, it’s the environment here that has served to inspire both poet and lover alike. At the southern part of historical Salamanca there is a garden called “Huerto Calixto y Malibea“. It is named after one of the greatest works of Spanish literature, “La Celestina”, and is a public park for any who would like to visit. “La Celestina” is a tragic tale of two lovers, Calixto and Malibea, whose forbidden love caused them to arrange a secret meeting in “El Huerto”.

In the Huerto of Salamanca there is a statue of “La Celestina” standing guard over the garden. The landscaping is beautiful and provides incredible views of the city in the north and the River Tormes in the south. However, the Huerto’s most extraordinary trait is the well at the center of the garden. The arch over the well is covered with locks and below, in the depths of the dark water, lay their corresponding keys. Tradition has it that whenever someone falls in love in the city of Salamanca they attach a lock to the well of the Huerto and throw away the key symbolizing their commitment.

This is yet another example of the deeply rooted tradition in Spain. It is a tradition founded in literature, in poetry, in the deepest parts of the Spanish culture; and, in a symbiotic twist, it is this tradition that serves to inspire another generation of writers.

Monday, July 18, 2011

Franco and Unamuno

Today commemorates the 75th anniversary of the start of the Spanish Civil War. The conflict would last for three years and prove victorious for one Francisco Franco, dictator of Spain from 1936 to 1975. It is difficult to interpret the sentiments of the Spanish people toward the Franco regime. As a foreigner, one must tread the waters of the Franco regime carefully as it is a subject that cuts to the heart of Spain. For some, it was a reality that they lived with for the greater parts of their lives and therefore not easy to express or digest. For most, it is simply a reality of Spain’s personal history and identity.

There is a story concerning Franco and a well known author in Salamanca named Don Miguel de Unamuno. Like the famous Fray Luis de Leon, Unamuno was a rector at the University of Salamanca in addition to being a world renowned writer. His diverse writings spoke to the splendor of Spain and her traditions.

During the Franco regime, government delegates, or Franquistas, visited Salamanca, and Unamuno, as rector, had the responsibility of welcoming the generals. At a meeting with the heads of state, Unamuno began to argue with a Franquista general named Millan-Astray. Unamuno claimed that Millan-Astray was trying to cripple Spain's culture and people.

"You will win, but you will not convince," Unamuno said. "...because to convince means to persuade. And to persuade you need something that you lack: reason and right in the struggle. It seems to me useless to beg you to think of Spain.”

Some time after his meeting with the Franquistas, Unamuno passed away. His coffin was draped with the Franquista flag. As he predicted, Unamuno remaind unconvinced and Franco won, leaving a symbol of his victory with the interred rector. And in the Plaza Mayor in Unamuno's town of Salamanca, Unamuno's likeness stares across at a similar carving of Franco, challenging Spain's dictator even in death.

Sunday, July 17, 2011

Siesta Suggested for Germany

Spain is a country where the influences of many different cultures can be seen, including those influences from the Roman, Arab and Jewish civilizations. However, it is rare to see that process of cultural influence and change in practice. But in an article on Yahoo today, readers saw a little of the Spanish influence creep into the culture of Europe. The article spoke of experts in Germany who are recommending siestas or short nap times in places of work throughout the country. Refering to Spain's successful siestas, experts claim that a short break in the work day works to reenergize and motivate employees.

Saturday, July 16, 2011

The Walls of Avila

Medieval giants surround the city of Avila, a small yet veritably fortified city. These giant walls of Avila, constructed over a 9 year period in the 11th century, embrace the hometown of the counter reformation Saint Teresa. What is more impressive than the appearance of these walls however, is the diverse effort that went into their construction. Built over Roman ramparts, the walls of Avila owe their making to many hands. Among those who occupied the city of Avila and helped in the wall’s construction are the Romans, Visigoths, Arabs, Jews and Christians. A plaque on the wall compares the giant structures to a great book in which all styles, cultures, languages, and visions of the world are represented - a mixture of influences much like the greater culture of Spain.

Despite Avila’s overwhelming exterior, her people and streets still subscribe to the familial and comfortable Spanish society. Newly wedded couples stroll through the city square in all their finery, while friends meet for a drink in the shaded terraces.

Indeed, everyone, citizen and tourist alike, are quite comfortable in this historical city. After climbing the walls in the melting sun, our group took shelter under the shade of the giant structures. A group of elderly couples came rambling down the street and began to drop in the shade of the walls. A row of gray heads lay in easy company in the grassy shade. An old man beside me leaned over and said, “Así es como vivimos en España.” “This is how we live in Spain.”

Wednesday, July 13, 2011

Fray Luis and Spanish Timing

There is a well known story in Spain about Fray Luis de Leon, a rector of the University of Salamanca during the XVI century. It is said that during his studies, Fray Luis criticized the Latin translation of the Bible and proceeded to translate the "Song of Solomon" from Latin to Spanish. The powers that be were infuriated with Fray Luis and arrested him while he was teaching a class. He was imprisoned in Valladolid for four years. At the end of those four years, Fray Luis was released from prison and returned to teach classes at the University of Salamanca. Fray Luis began his first class by saying, "Decíamos ayer," or "As we were saying yesterday..."

Fray Luis's famous words are remembered throughout Spain to this day and encompass the Spanish understanding of time. The Spanish concept of time is one of a relaxed disdain for the hour, day or year. Compared to the fast paced culture and rigid schedule of the United States, Spain's hours of work and play are relaxed and flexible. Most stores open no sooner than 9 or 10 in the morning and close for up to 3 hours for the afternoon siesta. Visitors soon discover the benefits of Spain's siesta because, although most shops close around 7 or 8 p.m., the Spanish waking hours often last far into the small hours of the morning.

This is not to say that the Spanish do not keep a schedule. Indeed, foreign students soon learn that Spain's relaxed schedule does not extend to her places of learning. However, Fray Luis's indifference toward the time lost due to his unjust imprisonment is the same as a Spaniard's indifference toward the conventional hours of work and play. Time is not money here; time is a commodity meant to be savored.

Sunday, July 10, 2011

Segovia's Treasures

When I used to work with Latin American students, I was constantly impressed by how influenced the students were by American culture. Their constant references to Justin Beiber, High School Musical and all things Disney surprised me, but I soon wrote it off as the large influence of U.S. culture on the world as a whole. While the influence of U.S. culture cannot be dismissed, the city of Segovia proves that not even Disney is solely of American ingenuity.
Segovia is situated about two hours outside of Salamanca and is one of the best representations of Old Castile. One of Segovia’s most famous attributes is the Alcazar. The Alacazar is a behemoth castle on top of a large hill. It is known within Spain for its beauty and its grandeur. It is known throughout the world as the inspiration behind the castles in Disney’s Snow White and Sleeping Beauty. How strange that I boasted of U.S. influences throughout the world, when in fact ours is based on another culture as well.
But the story of Segovia reaches farther back then the Spanish palaces and their consequent movie roles. Segovia also boasts some of the oldest remaining Roman aqueducts in the world. Segovia’s aqueducts are more than 2,000 years old and span across the city façade like ancient guardians, protecting the rich culture of the city. Moorish geometrical designs also cover the sides of buildings, reminding everyone of a forgotten father of Spanish culture.

Thursday, July 7, 2011

The Tunas of the Plaza Mayor

The corrido de toros, or the running of the bulls, no longer graces the Plaza Mayor in Salamanca. Where once there were drunken athletes and rampaging bulls, there are now strolling tourists and hungry diners. Truth be told, the running of the bulls, and bull fighitng in general, has become discouraged throughout the years due to the dangers for both man and beast. However, Salamanca does not allow Pamplona to monopolize all of the San Fermin festivities. The university town still finds a way to celebrate the traditions through their musical Tuna groups.

The Tunas are specific to Salamanca and date back to the XIII century when university students worked their way through school by singing at restaurants. Now, hundreds of years later, the Tunas still perform in the Plaza Mayor in their original costumes. The recording of CDs and the sea of cameras do not hinder the traditional group. Red and yellow bands duel from across the square while crowds gather and clap to the rhythm.

The night of July 7th was no exception. The Tunas were in full swing, singing ballads pertaining to the running of the bulls with their usual bravado and enthusiasm.

Wednesday, July 6, 2011

San Fermin Commences


Today marked the beginning of the San Fermin running of the bulls throughout Spain. This dangerous tradition takes all of Spain by storm, but perhaps none so much as Pamplona. The "chupinazo" that initiates the running of the bulls was in full swing in Pamplona today and promised a celebration like no other with participants from all over the world. Just as Salamanca helped celebrate the independence of the United States on July 4th, participants from every corner of the globe came to Pamplona for this incredible celebration.

Pamplona's famed running of the bulls is deeply rooted in tradition, but is the most famous in Spain due to the attention that Ernest Hemingway gave in his writings on the celebration. Hemingway brought the world's attention to this particular city's festivities and since then the celebration has become synonymous with the city.



The 4th of July on Spanish Soil

The 4th of July is not a holiday in Spain, but the people of Salamanca treat it as such. For residents of the city the 4th is a day when the streets become congested with American visitors. Thanks to the 1,500 foreign students that are visiting the city this summer - 70 percent of whom are American students - the 4th of July serves as another way for the people of Spain to celebrate.



Throughout the day of independence, restaurants advertise American specialties like hot dogs or perritos calientes. Toward nightfall the Plaza Mayor becomes crowded with bar owners sporting American flags draped over their shoulders and handing out invitations to their nightclubs with promises of free drinks. American students did not disappoint. Hundreds, American or otherwise, flocked to the celebrations around the city and reveled in the red, white and blue decorations that draped ancient European buildings.


The contrast of a country so young celebrating in a country so ancient was not lost on many. The 4th of July may not be a part of Spanish culture, but in Spain any day to celebrate is a good day indeed.

Monday, July 4, 2011

An Astronaut at Catedral Nueva

With each European city that I visit, I am more amazed by the rich culture that overflows the seems of modern development. But no other city has enchanted me as much as Salamanca. Salamanca is the perfect blend of comfortable tradition and relaxed culture. Known for hosting the oldest university in Spain as well as a bustling campus life, Salamanca serves as a window to the past, but is full of young people. It expresses beautifully the old being enjoyed by the new.




Midnight in the Plaza Mayor hosts hundreds of college kids talking in groups or enjoying tapas and sangria at the bar. But dispersed among the college crowd are old couples strolling hand in hand through the busy square, or small children running ahead of their parents to watch a street performer's skilled ventriloquoy.

One of the most visual representations of this blending of the old and new can be found at the Catedral Nueva in center of the city. Teeming with flying buttresses and intricate carvings, the mammoth Catedral Nueva was built in the 1500s. In the 1900s workers slaved over the restoration of the building and left their own mark in the cathedral's carvings. Toward the front of the Catedral Nueva workers carved a small astronaut into the scroll work of the cathedral's pillars. Workers placed the astronaut on the pillar as a representation of the century that the restoration took place. As a symbol, the astronaut looks wildly out of place among the busts of long-forgotten saints and the crests of Spanish kings. However, it embodies the eternal spirit of past and present in Salamanca.

Friday, July 1, 2011

Ghosts of the Madrid Protest

Madrid's plazas are quieter than they used to be. The shouts of protestors and the threat of police barricades are now replaced by the songs of traveling performers or the laughter of amused tourists. But there are still remnants of the protests that rocked the nation to be found in grafitteed messages and forgotten sit-down sites. Grafitti outside of the Palacio Real expresses the frustration of protestors right to "no votes". In Puerto del Sol, a remaining sign promises the end of the citizens' silence.

The protests in Madrid have long since ended but one might ask - as they look at Mickey andMinnie Mouse taking a water break in 90 degree weather - if anything has changed. Have the protests succeeded? Has the 21 percent unemployment rate decreased?


Indeed, little remains of the May protests except the working conditions that they protested. But the historical precedent that was begun in the Tahrir Square of Egypt has entered Spain's history as well. No matter the outcome, the protests in Madrid will shape the history and culture of the Spanish people.