Franco and Unamuno

Today commemorates the 75th anniversary of the start of the Spanish Civil War. The conflict would last for three years and prove victorious for one Francisco Franco, dictator of Spain from 1936 to 1975. It is difficult to interpret the sentiments of the Spanish people toward the Franco regime. As a foreigner, one must tread the waters of the Franco regime carefully as it is a subject that cuts to the heart of Spain. For some, it was a reality that they lived with for the greater parts of their lives and therefore not easy to express or digest. For most, it is simply a reality of Spain’s personal history and identity.

There is a story concerning Franco and a well known author in Salamanca named Don Miguel de Unamuno. Like the famous Fray Luis de Leon, Unamuno was a rector at the University of Salamanca in addition to being a world renowned writer. His diverse writings spoke to the splendor of Spain and her traditions.

During the Franco regime, government delegates, or Franquistas, visited Salamanca, and Unamuno, as rector, had the responsibility of welcoming the generals. At a meeting with the heads of state, Unamuno began to argue with a Franquista general named Millan-Astray. Unamuno claimed that Millan-Astray was trying to cripple Spain's culture and people.

"You will win, but you will not convince," Unamuno said. "...because to convince means to persuade. And to persuade you need something that you lack: reason and right in the struggle. It seems to me useless to beg you to think of Spain.”

Some time after his meeting with the Franquistas, Unamuno passed away. His coffin was draped with the Franquista flag. As he predicted, Unamuno remaind unconvinced and Franco won, leaving a symbol of his victory with the interred rector. And in the Plaza Mayor in Unamuno's town of Salamanca, Unamuno's likeness stares across at a similar carving of Franco, challenging Spain's dictator even in death.

Fray Luis and Spanish Timing

There is a well known story in Spain about Fray Luis de Leon, a rector of the University of Salamanca during the XVI century. It is said that during his studies, Fray Luis criticized the Latin translation of the Bible and proceeded to translate the "Song of Solomon" from Latin to Spanish. The powers that be were infuriated with Fray Luis and arrested him while he was teaching a class. He was imprisoned in Valladolid for four years. At the end of those four years, Fray Luis was released from prison and returned to teach classes at the University of Salamanca. Fray Luis began his first class by saying, "Decíamos ayer," or "As we were saying yesterday..."

Fray Luis's famous words are remembered throughout Spain to this day and encompass the Spanish understanding of time. The Spanish concept of time is one of a relaxed disdain for the hour, day or year. Compared to the fast paced culture and rigid schedule of the United States, Spain's hours of work and play are relaxed and flexible. Most stores open no sooner than 9 or 10 in the morning and close for up to 3 hours for the afternoon siesta. Visitors soon discover the benefits of Spain's siesta because, although most shops close around 7 or 8 p.m., the Spanish waking hours often last far into the small hours of the morning.

This is not to say that the Spanish do not keep a schedule. Indeed, foreign students soon learn that Spain's relaxed schedule does not extend to her places of learning. However, Fray Luis's indifference toward the time lost due to his unjust imprisonment is the same as a Spaniard's indifference toward the conventional hours of work and play. Time is not money here; time is a commodity meant to be savored.