A Farewell to Spain

"Men go abroad to wonder at the heights of mountains, at the huge waves of the sea, at the long courses of the rivers, at the vast compass of the ocean, at the circular motions of the stars, and they pass by themselves without wondering." - Augustine of Hippo

My time in Spain has come to an end with all the bittersweet feelings that are sure to accompany such a conclusion. A nervous excitement has taken hold of many summer program students in Salamanca. They pack the shops trying to find their last souvenirs and hold study halls in the cafés, attempting to cram in endless conjugations and corresponding verbs before finals.

But the majority of students have adopted the Spanish calm. They sit in the Plaza Mayor enjoying their last ice cream. They stroll through the parks with their hands behind their back and see the summer flowers beginning to fade in anticipation of fall. They sit by the Rio Tormes with a book in their hand and bare feet in the grass. They breathe it all in and know that they have not only discovered another culture, but a new part of themselves in that culture. It seems that we, the consummate tourists, have discovered Fuentes’ Buried Mirror as well.

However, with the end of our travels comes a certain temptation to believe that the Spain we have come to know will be forever frozen in the way we remember it, in the history we relate. Narcissistic in the extreme, this thought is quickly banished as we see the changing leaves and entering novitiates who will no doubt add to the country’s rich history.

Spain and her culture may be rooted in a layered history but she continues to change with her people. The roots of Spain are strong, buried in riots and victories, dictators and kings, expulsions and conquests; but the leaves of Spain, the culture of Spain, continue to evolve and grow.

Spain lives on through its lengthy history, its magnanimous buildings, its inimitable customs, its diverse religions and, most importantly, through its people.

A Wedding in the Plaza Mayor

Almost every city in Spain boasts a Plaza Mayor in the center of the city where both the ordinary and extraordinary events of life are celebrated. At night, old couples stroll through the square, while children kick soccer balls over the uneven cobblestone and college kids share wine and tapas with friends. And then there are the weddings.
I am always shocked to witness the abundance of weddings that congregate in these public places. There is no timidity about parading these celebrations around the city and there is no desire for privacy. The joy of a wedding is shared with the entire city or not at all. Así como es España.

Franco and Unamuno

Today commemorates the 75th anniversary of the start of the Spanish Civil War. The conflict would last for three years and prove victorious for one Francisco Franco, dictator of Spain from 1936 to 1975. It is difficult to interpret the sentiments of the Spanish people toward the Franco regime. As a foreigner, one must tread the waters of the Franco regime carefully as it is a subject that cuts to the heart of Spain. For some, it was a reality that they lived with for the greater parts of their lives and therefore not easy to express or digest. For most, it is simply a reality of Spain’s personal history and identity.

There is a story concerning Franco and a well known author in Salamanca named Don Miguel de Unamuno. Like the famous Fray Luis de Leon, Unamuno was a rector at the University of Salamanca in addition to being a world renowned writer. His diverse writings spoke to the splendor of Spain and her traditions.

During the Franco regime, government delegates, or Franquistas, visited Salamanca, and Unamuno, as rector, had the responsibility of welcoming the generals. At a meeting with the heads of state, Unamuno began to argue with a Franquista general named Millan-Astray. Unamuno claimed that Millan-Astray was trying to cripple Spain's culture and people.

"You will win, but you will not convince," Unamuno said. "...because to convince means to persuade. And to persuade you need something that you lack: reason and right in the struggle. It seems to me useless to beg you to think of Spain.”

Some time after his meeting with the Franquistas, Unamuno passed away. His coffin was draped with the Franquista flag. As he predicted, Unamuno remaind unconvinced and Franco won, leaving a symbol of his victory with the interred rector. And in the Plaza Mayor in Unamuno's town of Salamanca, Unamuno's likeness stares across at a similar carving of Franco, challenging Spain's dictator even in death.

The Tunas of the Plaza Mayor

The corrido de toros, or the running of the bulls, no longer graces the Plaza Mayor in Salamanca. Where once there were drunken athletes and rampaging bulls, there are now strolling tourists and hungry diners. Truth be told, the running of the bulls, and bull fighitng in general, has become discouraged throughout the years due to the dangers for both man and beast. However, Salamanca does not allow Pamplona to monopolize all of the San Fermin festivities. The university town still finds a way to celebrate the traditions through their musical Tuna groups.

The Tunas are specific to Salamanca and date back to the XIII century when university students worked their way through school by singing at restaurants. Now, hundreds of years later, the Tunas still perform in the Plaza Mayor in their original costumes. The recording of CDs and the sea of cameras do not hinder the traditional group. Red and yellow bands duel from across the square while crowds gather and clap to the rhythm.

The night of July 7th was no exception. The Tunas were in full swing, singing ballads pertaining to the running of the bulls with their usual bravado and enthusiasm.

The 4th of July on Spanish Soil

The 4th of July is not a holiday in Spain, but the people of Salamanca treat it as such. For residents of the city the 4th is a day when the streets become congested with American visitors. Thanks to the 1,500 foreign students that are visiting the city this summer - 70 percent of whom are American students - the 4th of July serves as another way for the people of Spain to celebrate.

Throughout the day of independence, restaurants advertise American specialties like hot dogs or perritos calientes. Toward nightfall the Plaza Mayor becomes crowded with bar owners sporting American flags draped over their shoulders and handing out invitations to their nightclubs with promises of free drinks. American students did not disappoint. Hundreds, American or otherwise, flocked to the celebrations around the city and reveled in the red, white and blue decorations that draped ancient European buildings.

The contrast of a country so young celebrating in a country so ancient was not lost on many. The 4th of July may not be a part of Spanish culture, but in Spain any day to celebrate is a good day indeed.

An Astronaut at Catedral Nueva

With each European city that I visit, I am more amazed by the rich culture that overflows the seems of modern development. But no other city has enchanted me as much as Salamanca. Salamanca is the perfect blend of comfortable tradition and relaxed culture. Known for hosting the oldest university in Spain as well as a bustling campus life, Salamanca serves as a window to the past, but is full of young people. It expresses beautifully the old being enjoyed by the new.

Midnight in the Plaza Mayor hosts hundreds of college kids talking in groups or enjoying tapas and sangria at the bar. But dispersed among the college crowd are old couples strolling hand in hand through the busy square, or small children running ahead of their parents to watch a street performer's skilled ventriloquoy.

One of the most visual representations of this blending of the old and new can be found at the Catedral Nueva in center of the city. Teeming with flying buttresses and intricate carvings, the mammoth Catedral Nueva was built in the 1500s. In the 1900s workers slaved over the restoration of the building and left their own mark in the cathedral's carvings. Toward the front of the Catedral Nueva workers carved a small astronaut into the scroll work of the cathedral's pillars. Workers placed the astronaut on the pillar as a representation of the century that the restoration took place. As a symbol, the astronaut looks wildly out of place among the busts of long-forgotten saints and the crests of Spanish kings. However, it embodies the eternal spirit of past and present in Salamanca.